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Ethiopia - wildlife hotspot

Often overlooked as a wildlife destination, Ethiopia competes with East Africa’s safari hotspots in Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, so it comes as a surprise to learn that it is one of the 25 richest countries in the world in terms of biodiversity. Bale Mountains National Park (BMNP), some 400 kilometres southeast of Addis Ababa, contributes enormously to this.

Consisting of five unique habitats ranging from Afro-alpine meadow to primary cloud forest, it is home to more than 400 species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians, plus more than 1,300 flowering plants. Indeed the Bale Mountains have one of the highest concentrations of endemic species of any habitat on earth, and contain 26% of Ethiopia’s endemic species. With my mind reeling from these statistics, I could barely contain my anticipation of what I might see during a 48-hour visit…

We touched down on a grassy strip outside Goba after a panoramic flight from Addis, flying low over the Rift Valley with fantastic views of ancient volcanoes and deep gorges, interspersed with the patchwork fields of highland farming communities. It wasn’t long before we were marvelling at the views that unfolded as we drove up a dirt track to the Sanetti Plateau, home to the Ethiopian wolf.

“Keep your eyes peeled – this is where the BBC pack live.” our host said. “Once you get your eye in they’re easy to spot.” Sure enough, two minutes later we saw our first wolf, then another as they jogged along casually, lit by the evening sun, out on one final patrol before bedding down for the night. We spotted a lone wolf hunting and watched him cock his head, pounce and retrieve a tasty bedtime snack – probably a molerat – from a burrow.

Stopping to admire the reflections in a beautiful lake, we had our first sightings of blue-winged goose and spot-breasted lapwing. A Rouget’s rail emerged, flicking its white tail feathers, and a flock of black-headed siskins flew overhead. A moment to savour, but we were keen to reach the top of the escarpment, which falls away to Harenna Forest below, before sunset – so pushed on.

Two Blick’s grass rats hugged each other as we approached, then promptly fell over backwards as we passed, and we saw not just one but several Starck’s hares plus some klipspringer en route. Piling out of our vehicle, we scrambled up a steep outcrop and were stunned into silence – at the edge of a land floating on clouds, with breath-taking views.

On the descent the rocky outcrops the colour of terracotta and sage-green meadows dotted with giant lobelias gave way to stands of giant heather and huge ancient trees clad in moss, lichen and epiphytes. Among the many birds were augur buzzard, wattled crane and Abyssinian slaty flycatcher. After dinner at the lodge, I headed to my room and was greeted on the terrace by a Bale Mountains two-horned chameleon. That night I drifted off to sleep to the sound of red-chested cuckoo and distant hyena…

I woke early and drew my curtains to be rewarded with a glimpse of a Bale monkey feeding in the bamboo outside then, strolling over to the lodge, I startled a Menelik’s bushbuck and thick-billed raven. What a start!

As the sun rose over the mountains the chill melted away, and the bush came alive. A gang of wattled ibis wandered through the grounds, as well as an Abyssinian oriole, a tambourine dove and a flock of yellow-crowned canaries. Over the next hour we covered no more than 500 metres, but totted up around 30 different species of birds.

Later we drove to Harenna Forest, where black-maned lion and melanistic leopard are frequently seen. Colobus monkeys peered from the treetops and we kept our eyes peeled for giant forest hog. Teams of university researchers are currently investigating the forest’s butterflies, and have already found 40 new and potentially unique species.

All too soon it was time to leave. As we headed back to Addis, I reflected on how much I had seen. The variety was staggering and I lost count of the number of endemic species. BMNP is a must for any wildlife trip to Ethiopia. Who knows – while exploring you might even discover a new species? 

Experience the wildlife of Ethiopia's Bale Mountains for yourself, or give us a call for further inspiration on this fascinating yet underrated destination.